La Festival Mama Negra

This weekend, I traveled to Latacunga for La Festival Mama Negra.  Latacunga is a small town about 2 hours south of Quito, located very close to the volcano Cotopaxi.  The Mama Negra (Black Mother) festival is held each year by the indigenous people.  They praise the "black mother" for protecting their city, especially from the volcano Cotopaxi, one of Ecuador's most active volcanoes.  The festival and parade were nothing like anything I've ever seen before.  As you would expect, there were bands playing music and many people dressed in traditional Ecuadorian clothes dancing throughout the streets.  However, included in these dancers were men dressed as women.  It was pretty hysterical.  There were also men dressed in all white with sticks who traveled throughout the crowd "purifying" people.  They would dance around you, hit you with the sticks, and chant things like "Long Live Latacunga" while another man would spit alcohol on you.  Being a gringa, I definitely stuck out in the crowd and was chosen multiple times.  In the eyes of "La Mama Negra", I am now as pure as can be.   Like parades in the US, dancers and others walked the streets handing out candies, pins, and other small things.  However, unlike the US, these people also walked around with flasks and bottles of who-knows-what type of alcohol, attempting to force shots on everyone in the crowd.  You just had to keep your mouth closed and run in the opposite direction whenever you saw someone coming with a bottle.  

On Saturday, after the parade ended, we left Latacunga to go to Cotopaxi.  We spent the night in a beautiful hostel in the country side - after leaving the main road, we drove for about 1.5 hours on a dirt road before we got to the hostel.  It was definitely worth the drive as it was absolutely gorgeous.  The sunset, the mountains, the garden - everything was wonderful!  On Sunday, we rented horses and went for a 3 hour ride up into the mountains.  I had a wonderful time - just now I have a very sore back and legs.  Upon returning to the hostel after the horse ride, we were able to relax in the jacuzzi and read by the fire.  It was some much needed relaxation before returning to Quito to start another busy week of volunteering.

One of the many "women" in the parade

Some "women" line dancing throughout the streets

A couple in traditional Ecuadorian dress

More parade dancers

The "purifiers"

The masks of the "purifiers" - yes, it was a little bit frightening

More dancers - I loved all the beautiful colors

Look at the beautiful colors of Ecuador clothing!

Myself, Jo and Kathy - 3 of the 5 weekend travelers 

The sunset from our hostel in Cotopaxi

The wonderful view from our hostel in Cotopaxi

Horseback riding in the mountains

We even got to look like Ecuadorian cowboys with our chaps!

The five of us on our horses

El Dia de Los Difuntos

Saturday was El Dia de Los Difuntos (the Day of the Dead).   Walking through much of Quito, you wouldn't even know it was a holiday, except for the abundance of colada morada (a fruit drink with a deep purple color to resemble blood) and guaguas de pan (bread shaped and decorated like a baby) everywhere.  However, John and I decided to spend the afternoon in one of Quito's largest cemeteries, El Cementario de San Diego.  Here, you could definitely tell that it was a special day.  At the entrance to the cemetery, there were hundreds of people selling flowers, rosaries, and of course, colada morada and guaguas de pan.  The cemetery itself was packed with families, painting and decorating family members' tombs, eating food by the tombs, and just spending time with each other.  It was a pretty powerful thing to watch - definitely made me miss my family.

Saturday night, John and I went out for one last meal together.  He left Quito on Monday morning to return to the states, with no plans to return to Quito in the near future.  It was a pretty tough goodbye, as John is the friend who helped me to arrange this entire gap year.  We went to an Italian restaurant which was delicious (if anyone comes to visit me - we will definitely go to dinner there one night).  Plus, the meal did not include rice!!

I spent Sunday relaxing in one of Quito's many parks with a few friends.  I love spending Sundays in the parks.  Since Sunday is a very family-oriented day, there's always plenty of people watching with a lot of cute kids and adorable puppies!

My way of participating in the day's festivities - my guagua de pan

The flowers outside of the cemetery

The pictures below are all from inside El Cementario de San Diego - John and I got a little carried away with taking photos.

Halloween Edition

Let me start by saying in Ecuador, Halloween is technically banned.  The president does not want Ecuadorians to celebrate any foreign holiday, so instead of celebrating Halloween, Ecuadorians are supposed to celebrate El Dia de La Bandera (The day of the shield).  However, this law does not stop anyone from celebrating Halloween.

So last night for Halloween, along with 40 other people, I went on a chiva, basically a wooden party bus.  We rode around the city for 2 hours - dancing, singing, and even stopping in a plaza to elect a rey and reina (king and queen) of the chiva.

Hannah, Lauren, Colleen (the three fulbright girls)  and I dressed as an Ecuadorian meal.  Hannah was arroz (rice), Lauren was una sopa de espinaca (spinach soup), Colleen was espumilla (a type of ice cream treat sold on the streets everywhere), and I was guagua de pan (a little bit like a gingerbread man but made from bread).

We all had a great night! While there were no children trick or treating and I did miss the American candy, it was fun to celebrate Halloween in a new way!

The chiva which drove us around town all night

Guaguas de pan - It's a custom to eat these on El Dia de Los Difuntos (Day of the Dead - Nov 2)

The Ecuadorian Meal - A guagua de pan, arroz, espumilla, and sopa de espinaca

Just your average guagua de pan!

A Relaxing Week Followed By A Busy Weekend

I enjoyed my second week at El Nido just as much as my first.  I've been able to get to know the other workers much better, so now I feel as though I have a few more friends and people to talk to at work.  Also, I'm connecting with the girls more and more each day.  Whether it's playing basketball, helping with English or math, or watching their favorite soap opera, Corazon Valiente, I'm loving all the time that I get to spend with these girls.

On Saturday morning, ACF (the foundation I'm working with) hosted a Sports Day.  Two other foundations from the area came, and the girls spent the morning playing basketball in the local park.   I was called in to play in overtime of one game as a secret weapon, for I'm basically a giant to most Ecuadorians.  We did win the game 11 to 10!  I loved spending the morning playing with the girls and getting to know other ACF workers.

I spent Saturday afternoon with Colleen, Hannah and Lauren, the Fulbright scholars who graduated from college last year.  As Halloween is quickly approaching, we spent the afternoon shopping for Halloween costumes, followed by a movie night in one of their apartments.  For Halloween, we decided that we would be an Ecuadorian meal - each of us is going to be a different type of food.  Don't worry, I'll post lots of pictures!

On Sunday, I went with Lili and Jorge to Lili's parents house to celebrate Daniel's (Lili's brother) birthday.  It was nice to have a big family lunch, something that I have definitely been missing here.   After lunch, we went to Cotocachi, the leather capital of Ecuador.  There was a huge artisan market and you could find almost anything made of leather - belts, hats, bracelets, bags, coats, scarfs, boots!

Sunday night, I caught my first sickness.  Not sure if it was from the food (especially our dinner of cuy-guinea pig), or something else, but I've been pretty sick for the past 36 hours.   Luckily, there is plenty of rice and tea in my house!  

Playing basketball during overtime - we won by one point!

With all my girls after the games!

The market at Cotopaxi

My dinner of cuy - guinea pig

Continuing To Adjust

Since Cuenca, I haven't taken any more big trips, just small nights out trying to meet new people.  Last week, I went out with a friend of Lili's one night, and with Lili and Jorge and another couple another night.  I had a good time, it's just a little strange for me to be going out with people who are all over 30. Next mission:  Make friends my own age.  

On Sunday night, I went to a potluck with other people who are from the United States.  While I was hoping to meet other students, I found that most people were actually teachers and much older than me. I did, however, meet 3 girls who just graduated from college and are in Ecuador on Fulbright scholarships.  These girls may be my best bet at finding people close to my own age.  I may just have to get used to having older friends.  

This weekend, I also decided to move houses.  I had been living on the 3rd floor of the apartment complex with Lorena and her daughter Karla.  While Karla was very sweet, Lorena was almost never home.  With being homesick and missing my family, I think not having a "mom" in the house was making me feel even worse.  So Saturday morning, I packed up all my stuff again and moved to the 1st floor apartment with Lili and Jorge.  I'm hoping this situation will be better, as Lili, Jorge and I have similar schedules.  So far, we've been having dinner together and I feel as though I have a lot more interaction with others.  

My work at El Nido is continuing to be the highlight of my days.  As my spanish is improving, I'm starting to be able to connect with some girls and joke around with them.  On Friday, a new girl, Marianna, moved into the house.  Right now, she is very quiet and keeps to herself.  I can't wait to see a transformation in her as she spends time in the house.  

I'm continuing to adjust to life in Ecuador, whether it's eating dinner at 9:30, using buses to go almost everywhere, or texting in spanish.  While right now I would not say I'm having the time of my life, I feel that once I make a close group of friends, the fun will really start.  Hopefully that time is soon!

Night out on the town, in a spanish karaoke club.  Lili and Jorge (my hosts) are in the middle.

One Week Down

This past week has been pretty hectic, with a lot of traveling and adjusting to new places.  On Wednesday night, I moved into my new house and met my host family.  Karlita - my "sister"- is very welcoming, spending the first night showing me all her favorite music, movies, and helping me unpack.

Thursday morning, John and I,  with 3 others, went rock climbing in the mountains surrounding Quito.  It was my first time rock climbing outside (not in a gym), and I'm positive that I want to go again.  For those of you who are worrying, my shoulder was fine!

John's brother, Luke, and friend, Zack, arrived in Quito on Thursday night, and the 4 of us left at 4am on Friday morning for Cuenca.  We spent Friday through Sunday in San Bartolome (about an hour outside of Cuenca) with a family that makes guitars.  Luke and Zack were filming a documentary about the family and how the guitars are made in order to promote sales of the guitars in places other than Ecuador, where it's difficult for the family to sell the guitars at their full prices due to the poverty.  While there, I ate my first guinea pig, a delicacy in Ecuador.  Surprisingly, it was very good - kinda like duck.  On Sunday, because Luke and Zack finished filming early, we spent the day exploring Cajas, one of Cuenca's national parks.  It reminded me of the setting of the Lord of the Rings, only there were a lot of llamas.

This week, I had my first day of volunteering at El Nido ("the nest" in english), the shelter for the girls who are victims of human trafficking.  It was very fun to meet all the girls - there are 9 in total right now, and I can't wait to improve my spanish so I can better connect with them.  About an hour after I arrived at El Nido on Monday, I was told that I need to teach an English class to the girls -  I was given zero notice ahead of time and no guidance on what to teach.  I decided to teach the alphabet and numbers, and now I know to always be prepared with a lesson plan for my English class on Mondays.  I also helped with art classes, directed the "exercise hour" (we just danced for an hour), and helped with other various jobs around the shelter.  I had a great first week and I definitely think I will enjoy volunteering in El Nido.

Cajas National Park - Luke, Zack, and I

View from house in San Bartolome

Playing with the chickens at the house in San Bartolome

Cajas National Park

The First Days

I have arrived in Quito...everything may have not gone exactly as planned(I locked myself out of my own luggage with my TSA lock and my suitcase still has yet to arrive), but I'm here safe and sound and I LOVE IT!  My flight got in around 10:00 last night and I spent the first night in my friend John's house.  Today, John and I did a lot of exploring around Quito, and it is even more beautiful than I had imagined.  Quito is surrounded by mountains and volcanoes, which makes for some very amazing sights.  Tomorrow, we may take a ski-lift to the top of one of the volcanoes, as the sights are supposed to be amazing.  John also attempted to introduce me to a lot of the public transportation, and hopefully I will pick up on this city's crazy bus system soon.   I'll be meeting my host family tomorrow, and possibly spending Thursday at the shelter where I will be working.  And then on Friday, bright and early, I head off with John, his brother, and another friend to Cuenca, one of the most beautiful cities in Ecuador.  All I can say so far is everything has been great...I've just learned to use a lot of sunscreen!!

Before heading to the airport, with my 100 lbs of luggage!

The wonderful Mitchell who kindly unlocked my suitcase at the airport.

The view from Itchimba, a park in one of the higher parts of the city.

Another view of the city from up high.

My first Ecuadorian meal - ceviche de pescado